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cape reinga
A
lonely lighthouse and a gnarled, twisted pohutukawa tree on a
windswept cliff top on the northern tip of New Zealand have a
special place in the Kiwi psyche.
Like Lands End in Britain, this ultimate extremity of our
dramatic landscape holds great historic and spiritual
significance. The venerated pohutukawa is the Reinga, the
place of leaping in Maori mythology, where the spirits of
the dead leap off the headland and climb down the roots of the
800 year old tree, and descend into the underworld to return to
their traditional homeland of Hawaiiki.
Scenic tours run daily to Cape Reinga from Paihia and Kaitaia and
include an exhilarating ride along the vast expanse of 90 Mile
Beach, plus a hair-raising trip over the shifting sands of Te
Paki Stream. The tours also offer adrenaline-pumping slides down
the massive west coast sand dunes.
From the Cape Reinga carpark climb to the lookout point and revel
in the liberating sense of freedom and space. Cape Maria Van
Diemen dominates the west and the North Cape is a black smudge to
the east.
Standing there you feel the fresh sea breeze and marvel at the
bright light which shimmers off the ocean crests. The seabirds
wheeling and screaming over the agitated sea catch the eye and
you suddenly realise you are witnessing the immense power of two
mighty oceans merging together. To the west an endless succession
of Tasman Sea rollers advance towards the Cape while an opposing
force powers in from the Pacific. The resulting collision is a
maelstrom of churning ten metre waves erupting in explosions of
spray and spume. It is fascinating to try and predict the
collision points and to wonder at the energy released by this
violent clash.
From the carpark you can join part of the New Zealand Walkway
System. A track leads down to Werahi Beach and continues on to Te
Paki Stream. A track above the carpark winds around the coast to
the Department of Conservation campsites at Tapotupotu Bay and
Spirits Bay. Walking the Cape Reinga hills with a sea breeze,
bright sunlight, pure air and wide vistas is a sheer delight.
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